Pinewski's Ski and Board Shop

ORNADA - The Armada Team Movie

Ornada Premiere

ORNADA is a full length team movie, highlighting the talents of their team riders. This is a first of its kind for Armada, and something that the community has been asking for since probably Armada's inception. This film will highlight the OG's all the way up to the new guns. Expect the best and we promise you will not be disappointed.

We will be hosting a premiere of the movie at the shop. Spots will be limited as we do not have unlimited space. Make sure you RSVP Here. Catch the trailer below!

Snowboard Stomp Pads

What do snowboard stomp pads even do? Simply put, the stomp pad gives you traction when you are not strapped into your snowboard binding. This is common when you are in the lift line and most importantly, when you are getting off of the chairlift. This simple tool could save you from falling as you get off of the lift!

Foam Vs Plastic?
There are two main categories we would group stomp pads into. Those being foam or plastic stomp pads. The foam ones we tend to describe as offering "just enough" traction. Something where your boot wont slip around, but you can easily adjust your foot when needed. This is also a style of pad we would recommend to an intermediate or advanced level rider. The plastic stomp pads tend to have a little more bite to them, and offer more control over the board. This can be advantageous for a newer rider, as this may give them the confidence of being strapped in while getting off of the lit. The drawback is that small changes in stance can be harder with the plastic stomp pads.

Foam	Plastic

How Do You Apply Stomp Pads?
Most stomp pads are very easy to apply, and come with an adhesive backing. The talking points here are that you want to make sure the snowboard surface has been cleaned, and the board is at room temp! To clean the top of the snowboard, we recommend using a window/glass cleaner. This will take off any surface dust/grime and also not harm the finish of the board. We also recommend letting the stomp pad sit overnight to make sure it has fully adhered to the surface. You could even stack some old books or weights on top of the stomp pad to apply pressure while the stomp pad sits overnight.

Where to Put my Stomp Pad?
Most cases the stomp pad is placed just in front of your rear foot. This way you can still us the binding as a back atop and help keep your foot locked into place. The only pointer we have here to give yourself a little room in between the binding and the stomp pad, so in the case you mose your binding, you do not need to remove the stomp pad to do so.

Armada AR One - What We Have Learned.

Armada AR One Ski Boot

Armada has entered the boot game, and we have had plenty of people in store trying them on, people skiing them, and overall getting feedback from people on their first thoughts on the boot. One common piece of feedback, or question rather, we get is why start making boots? Simple, Armada felt like there had to be a better boot for their target market. Freestyle boots have been the same since literally the 80's. Time will tell if this boot knocked it out of the park, or where it goes, but one thing I commend Armada on is that they are attempting it, and going all in.

What have we learned?
The fit of the boot has been very well received. Some comments of pressure points here or there but that comes with any boot and a variety of foot shapes. What I will say that is apparent that Armada tried address is heel hold, and ankle security. It is not like the materials they used are too dense/stiff or uncomfortable, they just focused on trying to keep the foot planted in the boot. This ultimately gives you better control of the ski and makes things such as switch ups much easier. On top of the padding, they address this with their instep buckle. This unique buckle shape really does make a difference when pulling your foot back. The one thing I will say is I do see customer fumble with this buckle a little their first time. No different in watching someone try to buckle one of those competitor boots that use cables for buckles. However, you can make adjustments to this buckle to make it easier to close or latch.

Overall I think they did a fantastic job in addressing this aspect of the boot and the rest of the boot feels great! Cant wait to get more time and laps on these, truly give them the full gauntlet test, but for now, Im a big fan! Again, its something new and someone is trying to shake up the boot game which has been stagnant for years. Props to Armada.

The K2 Cortex Boot - What to Know?

K2 Cortex - Double BOA Ski Boot?

Yes you read that correctly, a Double BOA SKI Boot. The K2 Cortex is a first for K2 in two departments. It is the first double BOA ski boot that K2 will offer, and it is the first low volume boot K2 has offered in a couple of seasons. We know these will come with some criticism however, they are also openly trying to change the game of ski boots and that is worth something. We want to see our sport continue to progress, and any step, is a step forward, even if it flops. At the end of the day, someone is trying to push the envelope and that will lead to innovation in some manner.

Double BOA Ski Boots.
Though K2 will not be the only brand with a double BOA ski boot for the 25/26 season, it is one of the first on the market. The top BOA mechanism is quite interesting, as the top cable has one removable anchor point which will allow the upper cuff to open wide for entry and exit. This piece is easily put back into place, and will be under pressure when the BOA is engaged, so no worry of it falling off or coming loose. On the the BOA itself, it engages to the shell of the boot just like the lower units and is R/L specific. In case of impact, the BOA will release and is very easily re-engaged to the shell. On top of that if you need to maintenance the BOA the system makes it very easy to pop off with a screw driver.

All in all the top BOA has an interesting visual appearance and may take time to get used to, but I do believe they are here to stay and stay for a long time. It is a very easy system to use and my bet is we see this double BOA system trickle down to the beginner level boots in no time. You will see these double BOA offerings from brands like Nordica, Salomon, Fischer and others.

LV Re-Entry
K2's exit of low volume models went with some criticism from the high performance crowd. It was heard, and acted upon. K2 went to the lab, made some tweaks, and now are back and better than ever! The fit of this boot is fantastic. Obviously, that will depend on your foot shape, but vast improvements from their previous LV options. Better instep padding and hold, and in my opinion, better ankle pocket location. Meaning, when you put your aftermarket insole in the boot you don't also need to punch the shell. Tighter toe box as well. Overall a great firm handshake feel we've all been asking for.

Not a fan of the Double BOA but want the LV option from K2? K2 will also offer the Cortex shell in a single BOA option for the 25/26 season but only in the 110/120 flex ranges. Still not a fan? IDK what to tell you then..

New Balance x Andrew Reynolds - The Brand New 933!

New Balance x Andrew Reynolds

New Balance and Andrew Reynolds came together back in 2022 in a signing that shocked most people in the skateboard industry. Since then, we have all been waiting for the day when Reynolds, aka The Boss, would get his own shoe model. We are here to tell you that the day is coming April 25th! NB released images of the shoe earlier this week and it has been getting rave reviews. Here is your first couple glances at the new shoe that is soon to release! What do you think?

Ski Pole Sizing - The Right Way To Do It!

Ski Pole Sizing - The Right Way!

Are you looking at getting a new pair of ski poles? Maybe someone you know needs your advice and you want to make sure you recommend the right size. How do we size ski poles? It actually can be quite simple! That is if we know what to look for.. That is what I hope to let you know today.

How to Size?
When looking at poles, we size the pole when the pole itself is upside down. We do this because we don't want to take into effect the tip or basket of the ski pole. Reason being, the tip sinks into the snow when we use them and will not affect the sizing. Now that you know, follow these steps!

Flip the ski pole upside down.
Grab just underneath the basket of the ski pole.
Bring your elbow into your side.

Once you have done these steps we want to look at the position of your elbow. What we want to see is a 90 degree bend at the elbow. If that is what you see, you have the right size! If not, size up or down accordingly.

What if My Elbow is Never at 90 Degrees?
If you cannot seem to find a size of pole that is putting your elbow into that 90 degree bend, do not worry! Most ski poles can be "cut" or shortened. If you are purchasing them from a ski shop they may offer this as a service and can get the poles cut to the exact length you need. However, if you purchased some poles and are eager to cut your poles by yourself here are a couple tips!

To cut a ski pole we first need to remove the grip. First note which way the grip is point in relation to the pole so we can put it back on in the same way. To remove the grip, use a heat gun and slowly heat it so the glue inside loosens. Once the grip is evenly heated, ask a friend or use a vice and pull the shaft out of the grip. Once the grip is off, measure down 1" from the top and use either a pipe cutter or hack saw to cut the shaft. Now that the extra length has been removed, you can put the grip back on!

Shopping Online
First and foremost we need to know the skiers height! Once we know that information we can use the below chart to get us the recommended pole size. Once the pole are received we can double check the sizing with the information just above.

Ski Pole Size Chart

WIN A PAIR OF SKIS!!

SALOMON DEPART 1.0 GIVEAWAY

In partnership with Salomon skis, we are giving away a pair of Depart skis to get the early season stoke going!! This is a brand new ski for the 2024/2025 season, and is limited to select retailers. So an exclusive ski at that.

How do you enter?
Its free and easy! Follow these steps for various amounts of entries:

1. Like, Comment, and share either our INSTAGRAM or FACEBOOK post. This will get you 1 free entry.
2. Give us a 5-Star Google Review and you receive 5 entries.
3. Stop in the store and fill out a raffle ticket and receive 10 entries.

All in all, you can receive a total of 16 entries! Remember, no purchase necessary.

Valid entries must be done between Oct 30th and Nov 26th 11:59pm. Winner will be selected on Nov 27th at 11am. Winner will be contacted by us on either Instagram/Facebook or by phone call.

Best of luck to all who enter!!

Santa Cruz x Godzilla!!?

SANTA CRUZ x GODZILLA

The craziest collaboration we have seen from Santa Cruz since their last blind bags.... The all new, and honestly legendary, Godzilla capsule! This thing is sick from the top to the bottom. From the shirts to the decks. Everything was done right and we cannot wait for you to see these in the store.

Officially releasing on November 3rd, this capsule is sure to sell quickly. It has tried and true classic graphics you would expect from Godzilla comics/movies while also knowing they are done on quality decks. If you wanna hang it, go ahead. But also know these things are ready to rip and would be so sick to have as a cruiser/daily!

My personal favorite would be the Destroyer Deck because of the funky shape... Might even have to get this one for a movie room hanger...? Time will tell! All I can say is that they look better in person, and that the pictures don't do them justice. Make sure you stop into your local spot and check them out.

Pinewki's Annual Sidewalk Sale!!

Money, Money, Moneyyyyyy....(That one song)

Our annual Sidewalk Sale is back, and happening July 26th-28th. We will have a store wide sale both online and in store on the 26th and 27th. Online only on the 28th. This year we will have a blanket deal off of everything in the store. Take 20% off of any in stock item, even if it is already marked down. This is our biggest sale of the year and the best time to save. So make a point to be here, you won't want to miss it.

Understanding the Parts of a Skateboard

Parts, Parts, and More Parts....

When it comes to building a skateboard, or better yet trying to customize your skateboard. It is beneficial to know the technical terms of the skateboard. This will help you find what you are looking for, or even help you describe what you are trying to accomplish to the person working at a skateshop... We have created a diagram that gives a better look at some of the pieces that go into a skateboard, and I will break down details if necessary to give you some insight on what they might be for!

1. The Deck - Most people do not think much about the deck, other than the width of the deck will give you a feeling of more balance and a narrower deck will make for a lighter setup. This is true but one piece I believe to be continually overlooked is the wheelbase. this measurement can give you good insight on how quickly the board will turn regardless of your truck setup.

2. Griptape - Griptape will influence how much or how little grip you have. Above that, it is a statement piece. Do you want traditional Black? Maybe Clear? Or do you want to make it a one of a kind job? ie Cutting your griptape into different pieces, shapes and designs to give your board a one of a kind look.

3. Hanger - The Hanger is a component of the overall skateboard truck. The Hanger is what actually comes into contact with a rail or coping when skating. This is also a component that will "break in" as you skate more, and grooves will form where you most commonly lock into grinds. This is one piece that is not really replaceable...so if you were to break it, unfortunately new trucks may be in your future.

4. Wheel - Skateboard wheels come in so many shapes in sizes, im just going to refer you to the other post I made about choosing the right wheel. Click here if you want the finer details on choosing the right wheel for you!

5. Bearings - Bearings are what allow the wheel to spin freely. They are all one standard size bearing but you will find a wide variety of prices for these. Why though? A big part has to do with materials. ie Ceramic ball bearings. Another factor that can lead to cost is wether or not the bearing is sealed. If the bearing is not sealed, that means you can open them up and clean them. If it is sealed, you just buy new bearings when they get worn out.

6. Bearing Spacers - These spacers go inside of the wheel, in between the two bearings. This helps keep the bearings from pinching and also keeps you from over tightening the axle nut. If used, your bearings will stay cleaner as it makes it harder for dust to find its way into your bearings.

7. Speed Washers / Axle Washers - The Speed Washers, even though small, are not something to overlook. They compliment the previously mentioned Bearing Spacers and help ensure the bearing is not pinching on the axle nut, or the hanger of the truck. It helps ensure proper tightness without risking pinching.

8. Axle Nut - The Axle Nut is the nut that tightens the wheel onto the axle of the hanger. This nut typically has a nylon ring on it to ensure it does not rattle loose over time.

9. Bushings - Bushings are the suspension of your skateboard trucks. These will come in various durometers or hardness. This is something that I would encourage anyone to experiment with. ie Maybe you are very light and find it hard to turn the skateboard!? Get some softer bushings to allow you to turn with ease, and vice versa if you are bigger and heavier. These are something that are not expensive and easy to swap on and off yourself.

10. Kingpin Nut - The Kingpin Nut is the nut that tights down over the bushings of your skateboard trucks. It is important to not loosen this past the point of the nut being flush with the kingpin itself, and do not over tighten to the point your bushings are being squished. This nut will also have a nylon ring on it to keep it from rattling loose over time.

11. Hardware - Simple enough term, that encompasses the screws and nuts that hold the trucks to the deck. In total, there are 8 screws and nuts, 4 for each truck. In some cases you will find that your hardware pack will come with two bolts that are a different color than the rest. This is in an effort to help you designate your nose or tail of the board. They will come in different lengths, depending on how thick the board is or if you plan to use a riser pad. The most common length would 1" hardware. You may also see Allen vs Phillips. This is just the tooling used to tighten the screw. Most skate tools will have both Allen and Phillips heads for tightening.

That's a Wrap.

In conclusion there are a lot of pieces that go into making a skateboard and every piece does play a role. So if you do find yourself wishing to make a change, it may help to know the parts and pieces and which one may be the correct one to fix what you are trying to accomplish. In addition, there are more parts to a skateboard than mentioned, but we just felt that these are some of the most commonly referred to pieces! If you have questions on other pieces, please reach out!

Picking the Right Cross Country Skis for Kids

Choosing the right cross-country ski equipment for kids is crucial for their enjoyment and safety on the trails. Here we will try to provide useful information and tips to help you select the appropriate ski length, determine the suitable skiing style, and ensure your child has the necessary clothing and accessories for a great cross-country skiing experience.

Determining Ski Length for Kids:

When it comes to kids' cross-country skis, it's important to consider their body size and skill level. To ensure a comfortable and enjoyable experience, it is recommended to use slightly shorter skis for beginners. Here's a general rule of thumb for selecting ski lengths:

Skating Style
- Beginners: Subtract 5 to 10 cm from the child's body size.
- Advanced: Add 5 to 10cm to the child's body size.
Classic Style:
- Beginners: Add 5 cm to the child's body size.
- Advanced: Add 10cm to 20cm to the child's body size.

Keep in mind that kids' cross-country skis are typically available in lengths between 110 and 170 cm. So you may need to convert the ski size. If you're uncertain, it's advisable to choose a slightly shorter ski, especially if the child is new to cross-country skiing.

In addition to body size, it's important to consider your child's body weight. If the child has a higher weight, add an additional 5 cm to the ski length. Conversely, if the child has a lower weight, subtract 5 cm from the ski length. Remember that the optimal ski length depends on individual factors, so it's recommended to measure the child's size and consult with us if you have any questions

Starting Age for Cross-Country Skiing:

Children can begin cross-country skiing as early as 3 years old. Interest in the sport often arises when parents are regular skiers themselves. However, it's important not to overwhelm your child and prioritize their enjoyment over technical proficiency or long distances.

Skating vs. Classic Style:

Skating style requires more fitness and skill compared to classic cross-country skiing. The movements are similar to inline skating, and skating skis are shorter and stiffer than classic skis. While kids can attempt skating from around 8 years old, it's advisable to start with classic cross-country skiing using soft classic skis during the initial days.

Cross-Country Ski Poles for Kids

When selecting poles, it's important to ensure the correct length, which can be calculated as follows:

Classic Cross-Country Skiing: Body size in cm x 0.85 (or up to the armpit height)
Skating: Body size in cm x 0.90 (or up to chin/nose height)

Cross-Country Ski Boots for Kids

It's crucial that your child tries potential XC boots on while wearing the socks they will use during cross-country skiing. A proper fit, with adequate but not excessive space, is essential. We strongly advise against using hand-me-down boots from older siblings or others, as an unstable fit or compressed foot can compromise safety and enjoyment.

Additional Equipment Checklist for Cross-Country Skiing

While cross-country skis, boots, and poles are the core equipment, there are several other items that your child, like any adult skier, will require for a fantastic day on the trails. Here's a checklist to help you keep track:

- Breathable clothing following the layering principle

- Cap or headband

- (Cross-country) gloves

- Neck protection

- A snack and some Water

How to Choose the Right Skateboard Wheel

Skateboard wheels come in more shapes, sizes, and colors than we really can fathom. There are wheels built for street skating, cruising, and even wheels that can be good at most everything. How can we be confident in the fact that the wheel we want is the one that will also match the performance we are looking for? The first step is understanding the terms used to describe wheels, and the advantages and disadvantages that go along with them.

Wheel Size
The wheel size, or the diameter of the wheel, simple tells us how tall the wheel is. This size can typically range from 50mm-60mm, with your occasional outliers. Wheel size can also have an affect on how comfortable you feel on a board and even how fast or slow the board goes. With smaller wheels, you are not as high off the ground, and can make you feel a little more comfortable because you are closer to the ground. In addition, smaller wheels can reach their "top speed" with less pushing but do not hold their speed as well as their counterparts. Bigger wheels on the other hand, sit higher off the ground, so they may feel a little less comfortable for newer skaters, but hold their speed very wheel and will roll over cracks and imperfections with more ease.

On top of those factors, not only will the size of the wheel affect how the board rolls, but it can affect how the board moves. Smaller wheels will inherently be lighter weight than bigger wheels. This will make it easier for someone to do technical tricks as the board will weigh less with the smaller wheels. On the flip side, if you are using a bigger wheel you may not be doing technical flat ground tricks and you may be doing more transition or vert riding. If that is the case you will notice that bigger wheels will lock into coping a lot easier.

Wheel Hardness (Durometer)
The durometer of a wheel, or simply put, the hardness is a great factor to note when choosing a wheel. The hardness is measured by most companies using the "Durometer A Scale". This means that the number followed by the letter A is referencing the hardness of the wheel. ie. 97a, 99a, 101a... The lower the number the softer the wheel, and the higher the harder. Softer wheels will allow you to have a smoother ride, but will not be as fast. Whereas the harder wheels may have a bumpier ride, but will be faster.

The most common durometer for skateboard wheels would probably be 99a. This durometer will give you a balance of both smoothness as well as speed. 97a and lower would be considered soft with the bottom being somewhere around 85a for skateboard wheels. (Longboard wheels are know to go as low as 77a.) 101a would be the first step into hard wheels, and if you are looking for the hardest look for wheels with a "B Scale Durometer". These wheels would be listed as 80b, 82b, 84b....

Another factor that is influenced by the hardness of the wheel would be sliding. Softer wheels will want to grip the wheel and hold on more than hard wheels would. So if you want you wheels to break into a slide easier, stick with a harder wheel, and if you want to keep gripping pavement, stick with the softer wheels.

Wheel Shapes
Wheel shapes can be best described as the profile of the wheel. This could be how the wheel is tapered, or how wide the wheel is. These two pieces can factor two main things: How well a wheel locks in to coping or rails and how easily the wheel can be broken into a slide. The tapering will effect how it locks in. If the wheel is very square in nature, it will lock in a lot easier, whereas rounded wheels react more freely and can get out of a grind more easily. In regards to the wheel width, we are focusing in on the contact patch. This is the width of the wheel that is actually touching the ground. The wider this area, the more grip you have on the ground. Or the harder it will be to slide. Now hardness will have a factor in sliding your wheels as well, but this would be a second factor to keep in mind.

5 Steps to Gripping a Skateboard

Gripping a skateboard is one of those things that will become a right of passage for almost every skateboarder. It is something that you learn to do along the way of your skateboard journey, and it will slowly become this exciting step in getting a new skateboard. The satisfaction and anticipation of getting that new deck ready will make that first session with it even more enjoyable. But how do we get there? How can we make sure it is done correctly? Well you're in luck! Below is an over simplified breakdown of 5 steps to gripping a skateboard:

Prep work / Gather supplies
Line up the griptape
Push out the air bubbles
Score the edges
Cut the excess griptape off

Obviously the above 5 steps are super simplified, so here is some added to context to help you better understand, and how to do each step properly and efficiently.

Prep work / Gather Supplies

Prep work for gripping a skateboard is pretty simple. Remove the plastic, and remove the "skateboarding is dangerous" sticker (Heads Up: If you don't remove the sticker you will be cursed forever and ever and ever...Trust us. We haven't heard back from Larry in a while....)
- Another thing you could do is sand the top of the deck lightly to help the grip stick better.
Supplies for gripping a skateboard can be pretty simple as well. You need the Grip (double check width and length), something to cut the grip, and something to score the grip.
- For cutting the grip, we would recommend a razor blade. But realistically, you could use a pocket knife, utility knife, or anything with a blade.
- For scoring the grip, we tend to use a file, but you could use a screw driver, your trucks, or even a skate tool if you have one handy. (Some skate tools even have a file built into it)

Line Up the Griptape

Our suggestion would be take your time with this and even try mocking up the griptape before you remove the backing paper. This will give you a really good idea of how much griptape will overhang on both ends and side to side.
Once the backing paper has been removed, lay the griptape down lightly and before you move to the next step, just double check all the edges to make sure you will have even over hang. If you don't simply pull the griptape back off and try again.

Push Out the Air Bubbles

Pushing out the air bubbles is important and something you don't want to rush through. If you do, you might end up with wrinkles.
- Best practices for pushing out air bubbles: A Griptape roller, or the wheel from your truck. If you do not have a griptape roller handy, you can use your hands or fingers and slowing push the air bubbles down. You could also use the backing paper from the griptape, lay it on top of the deck and slide your hand across to push the air pockets out that way.
- Start from the middle of the deck and work your way out.
- Pesky air bubbles that cannot get rolled or pushed out can be "popped" with your razor blade.

Score the Edges

Scoring the edges will allow you to cut through the grip easier and works as an outline to follow. Score the grip as much or as little as you please, just know the more you score, the easier and cleaner it will turn out.
- Holding your file at a slight angle will keep you from scratching your grip in places you don't want to.

Cut Off the Excess Griptape

Take your blade and push it up through the bottom of the grip. As you cut, try to hold your wrist tight and work in long continuous motions.
- Having a new razor blade will make this much easier! If you are using an old, dull blade, you will have a little more difficulty cutting the griptape.

Al Fin
Thats a wrap! Now all you need to do is get your trucks on, and get out and ride your new deck. If you have any questions about anything above reach out, we would be more than happy to help or clarify!

5 Step Guide to Fixing Your Broken Ski Boot Buckle

5 Steps to Fix Your Broken Buckle.

Breaking a ski boot buckle can definitely be a nuisance, and always seems to happen at the most inconvenient of times. Then when it comes to fixing the buckle, sometimes we don't know where to start. Here is a 5 step guide to fixing your broken ski boot buckle:

Identify the location of the broken buckle and the boot manufacturer.
- This is important as you want to make sure the replacement buckle matches exactly for easy install.
Take note to how your buckle is attached. Likely it uses one of two ways: Riveted or machined hardware.
- Buckles that use machined hardware are attached using a simple screw. This can be quickly changed with an appropriate screw driver or Allen wrench. No further steps needed.
To remove a riveted buckle, you will need a hammer and punch, as well as a drill with a bit that is roughly the size of the rivet.
- Note: Remove the liner before drilling.
Take your punch and make a small indentation on the rivet, then take your drill and slowly start drilling the rivet until it pops off.
- Note: If you notice the rivet spinning, decrease the amount of pressure you are putting on the drill as well as slowing down the speed at which you are drilling.
To attach your new buckle, use a "T-nut".
1. Note: You may need to drill the existing hole from the rivet a little wider to accomodate the T-Nut hardware.

If you would like to have a visual representation of how this is done, here is a short video showing you what we are talking about!

Ski Boots 101 - Buckling Them the Right Way.

Buckling Can Be Tough

Ski boots... we love them, and quite honestly some of us hate them. Why is that? Is it the hard plastic shell? Is it the forward lean that drives us insane? Could it be as broad as us being in the completely wrong boots to begin with? It can be hard to say, but one thing I do know is people will always comment on how easy or hard a boot is too put on. I have heard it come from a seasoned skier of 30 years, and I've definitely heard it from a 10 year old kid that has been dragged to the store... So why is this? Are boots just naturally a difficult step to skiing that slowly evolves into a right of passage? Do you just ski long enough where you get over it? Even though there may be some merit to this I do not think it is such. Face it, a lot of us got into skiing and just start tossing on our boots without realizing there is a right way to put them on. Just push and pull and step down hard until you feel your foot finally fall into place. So here is my effort to try and help those struggling with their boots, and educate those who are looking for... well education.

The Steps to Success

Unbuckle the Boot
1. Okay we have to start somewhere....and as simple as it is, sometimes the buckles have a mind of their own! Just make sure all your buckles are undone, and out of the way so they do not relatch themselves.
Pull Your socks Up!
1. You would be suprised on how many people use ankle socks or dont pull their socks up. this makes more of a difference than you think.
Step Into the Boot
1. You are going to start to put your foot into the boot, and as you do so, you want to grab onto the liner loops and pull. Now it is very important that as you are pulling, you make sure the tongue of the liner is pulled off to one side. This will help open up the boot.
Kick your heel back!
1. One the foot is fully resided into the boot, you want to take and kick your heel back. This helps ensure our foot is positioned as far back into the boot as possible. This is also a great opportunity to resituate the tongue of the liner.
Buckling
1. When starting to buckle you want to start with the top of the boot and work your way down. Typically you start with the second buckle down, then go back first, and finish with the velcro/booster strap before moving on to the bottom two buckles.
2. The bottom 2 buckles should be "2 finger tight". This means that it should only take two fingers worth of pressure to latch the buckles. Think about them as sealing off the boot.

Video Recap

Here is a super simplified recap video showing you the steps it would take to buckle your boots the right way!

Building a NEW Skatepark!?

New Skatepark?
Over the last year or so we have been working with the City of Anoka and the Parks and Rec Board to help renovate the existing skatepark at John Ward Park (Rocket Park). It has been a big success so far, and we have raised a bunch of money! In the last 3 months we have even started giving away prizes to those who donate! Here is a video to go over what we are trying to do and this month's prizes!

Choosing a Waterski - A Buyer's Guide

Waterskiing!

Waterskiing is a tale as old as time itself...well something like that. Anyways, It seems that every boat has a pair of waterskis in it. Whether they are an old pair of wood skis, or a newer pair of combos. Waterskis are a staple in any boat. But, what are the differences? There seems to be a lot of them so what is the best way to navigate them? Here is our buying guide to help you find the best waterskis for you and your boat.

Pop Quiz!
The first thing in choosing the proper waterski is doing a little self assessment. Simply put, we want to know how avid of a skier you are. If you just like skiing around, taking in the views, and it happens to be on 2 skis all the time, combo skis are for you. These skis are great for new or less avid skiers because they are easy to get up on and are stable when skiing. Combo water skis are also less expensive than a slalom water ski. Now if you are someone who has learned how to slalom and want to take that next step, a slalom specific ski is the next step you want to take.

Combo Skis
As mentioned before, Combo Waterskis are great for new skiers and those who may not be as aggressive. They come in all sizes and are sized based on weight. So you can have a really small pair for the kids, a medium for the teenagers, and a large pair for adults. Combo skis will also have a rear loop on one ski in case you want learn to slalom ski. Some of these skis even come packaged with a connecting bar to help the "never ever" skiers. Again, a great waterski option for someone who may go handful of times a year.

If you ski behind a pontoon or a multi sport boat, combo skis are a great option.
Combo Skiing is usually done up to 25mph.

Slalom Waterskis
Slalom Waterskis are all waterskis that are sold as a single ski. Some Slalom Waterskis are called "Wide Body" skis, some "Crossover" and some "Course". These terms are used to describe how aggressive, or more importantly, how fast you are skiing. Speed is a tell tale sign of how aggressive of a ski you should look for. The Wide Body skis cover those skiers who may be skiing slower and Course skis cover those who are skiing the fastest.

Wide Body
- These waterskis are the "Sunday Cruiser" of slalom water skis. If you are coming off an old pair of combos and want to upgrade to a nice boot and something that has a little more side cut, this is a great step in the right direction. Wide Body skis are also great for those skiers who may have skied a Crossover before and are getting a little more relaxed in their more recent days. Meant to be skied at slower speeds. Roughly 24-30mph
Crossover
- Crossover water skis cover the skiers who ski aggressively but may not ski in a course regularly. These types of skis are usually meant to be skied anywhere from 26-34. They are great for that progressing level skier, or high end open water skier.
Course
- Course level waterskis are great for those who ski in a course regularly, or ski open water very aggressively. Speed for course level water skis is heavily dictated by weight and can range from 26-36mph. For example, If you have younger skier, they may only need to ski at 26mph because they do not weigh as much.
- The main reason you would need a course level ski is because of the sidecut. These skis are very aggressive and make skiing in courses much easier as they turn sharper than Crossover and Wide Body skis.
  - It is encouraged to have skied a crossover level ski before purchasing a course level ski to have better results.

Sizing
So now that you can comfortable know what style or level of water ski you are looking to get, we can move onto sizing. It is always encouraged to use a manufacturer's size chart when available, as this will give you the most accurate sizing. However if you are unable to find a size chart for the ski you are looking at, here is a general size chart.

Approx. Combo Ski Size
Ski Size (in)	Skier Weight (lbs)
Junior	Up to 60
59	Up to 120
63	110 - 160
67	Over 140
*These are rough numbers to get you in the ballpark of sizing. Always reference the manufacturer's size chart for specific sizing.

Approx. Slalom Ski Size
Ski Size (in)	Skier Weight (lbs)
63	Up to 110
65	Up to 150
67	150 - 200
69	200 - 250
71	250 and Up
*These are rough numbers to get you in the ballpark of sizing. Always reference the manufacturer's size chart for specific sizing.

Let's get Skiing!

If you are still confused on something you've read, or if you are trying to decide between two skis, do not hesitate to give us a call. We are your waterski experts! Additionally, if we have a ski that you are interested in, we do offer a demo program. So stop in and let the ski speak for itself. But now is the time to get that new ski and get on the water! Run don't walk.

Choosing a Wakeboard - A Buyer's Guide

Wakeboardin'. Let's get learned.

Wakeboarding has been around for a while, and over the years we have been blessed with a bunch of options. Wakeboards for the boat, wakeboards for the cable park, and some that have come and gone. For the most part the current landscape of wakeboarding has been simplified to two categories. Boat boards and cable boards. these two classifications just tell you where the board is meant to be ridden.

Boat Boards - Wakeboards that are classified as boat boards are meant for just that: Riding behind a boat. These boards can have molded in fins, and usually a lot more base structure and channels. these give the board more traction while carving and help with the faster speeds. Boat boards are built for faster speeds and more pop off of the wake.

Cable Boards - Wakeboards that are classified as cable boards are meant to be ridden at a cable park. Cable boards have pretty flat or simple bases and removable fins to allow riders to hit features at a cable park. The removable fins also allow the rider to customize the feel, or the ability to replace them as they wear out. Typically cable boards use a softer flex to help press the board when on features.

"Can I just use one board for both cable and boat riding?"

-Not a bad question, but there are some downsides both ways. If you were to use a boat board at a cable park the life of the board would be dramatically shortened. The reason being, the base is made out of a less durable material, and if the fins are destroyed there is no way to replace them. On the other hand if you decide to use a cable board behind the boat, you will notice that you will not have as much pop off the wake. This is because of the softer flex patterns found in cable boards. If you wanted to choose one way or the other, we would recommend a cable board behind the boat, rather than the other way around.

Understanding Shapes

3 Stage Rocker
- 3 Stage rocker is built around the end goal of more pop off of the wake (height). They achieve this by having two very abrupt transition points in the construction. The downside to 3 stage rocker wakeboards would be that instead of cutting through the water they tend to plow. Resulting in a slower board. You will also have to rely more on the edge of the board for traction rather than using the fins.

Continuous Rocker
- Continuous Rocker features one continuous curve to the bottom of the board. The reason this shape is used is to carry speed while cutting through the wake. Of the 3 profiles, Continuous is the fastest. The other side of having a fast board is more distance. When you take off the wake, you will have predictable pop (height) and great distance.

Camber
- Camber profiles in wakeboards are not as common but still offer something different than Continuous and 3 Stage Rocker profiles. Camber profile boards allow the rider to be a little more even when it comes to front/back foot weight. Typically on the other two profiles, you have to have more weight on your back foot. With the Camber profile you are able to get more weight to your front foot. Very different feel with great pop off the wake.

What to know about fins.
Fins on a wakeboard add traction to the wakeboard. This allows someone to carve without having to solely use the edge of the board. The number of fins can also dictate how much traction there is. Usually on beginner boards, you will find 3 fin setups. The two outside fins of the board being molded in and the center fin being removable. On intermediate and advanced level boards, you will usually have a 2 fin setup, with both fins ebing removable.

Note that cable boards usually have 2 or no fins at all and are always removable.

Wakeboard Sizing
Wakeboard sizing is going to depend on the exact board you are using but the biggest determining factor for board size would be rider weight. Heaver riders will require more surface are to keep them afloat, and smaller riders not a much. You can manipulate your boat speed a little in an instance wher someone may using a board that is not the recommended size.

Approx. Wakeboard Size
Rider Weight (lbs)	Wakeboard length (cm)
<100	<130
90 - 150	130 - 134
130 - 180	135 - 139
170 - 250	140 - 144
200 - 275	>144
*These are rough numbers to get you in the ballpark of sizing. Always reference the manufacturer's size chart for specific sizing.

Time to Wakeboard!

Now that we have your board narrowed down, its time to ride! Grab your board and head out behind the boat or to your closest cable park. Or, if you have any further burning questions we were unable to answer, feel free to give us a call or stop in and chat. We are your wakeboard experts.

Choosing a Wakesurf Board - A Buyer's Guide

Wakesurf Boards 101

Wakesurfing has become very popular in the past couple years. With that come a bunch of new users and a bunch of options. It can all be overwhelming and quite frankly confusing on where to start. How does one start looking at wakesurf boards? Well it all starts with a riding style. What you want to be able to do, or what you want the board to feel like. Those riding styles can be broken down into 3 main categories: Surf, Skim, and Hybrid.

Surf
- Surf style wakesurf boards are very stable and predictable. They are very good at carving up and down the wake, as well as popping off the top of the wake and into the air. They usually have a rounded rail and multiple fins. Most fins being 2" or bigger.
  - Rounded rail can be referenced in the picture below. *Top right profile.
Skim
- Skim style surf boards are very loose on the water and have a very playful feeling. They usually come with a single fin or if multiple fins, they are usually very shallow. This fin setup allows the board to spin a lot easier.
  - Skim shapes use a sharp rail. Sharp rail profile can be referenced in the picture below. *Bottom left profile.
Hybrid
- Hybrid style surfers are made with features from both Surf and Skim shapes. This allows you to get the best of both worlds. They usually come with multiple fin depths (2 deep and 1 shallow), and have a medium thick profile. These boards are stable when all fins are in and very playful when 1 fin is in.
  - Hybrid boards will use a combination rail. Reference the image below. *Profiles in the top left and bottom right.

Wakesurf Edge Profiles

Next Step: Sizing
Sizing a wakesurf board can be a little confusing. It is not as easy as knowing your weight and choosing a board size from a generic size chart. There are some other factors that can change the recommended size, even when comparing different boards from the same company. For example, the size of the board does not always have to be the listed length. We can look at the volume of the board. This will tell us how thick the board is and how buoyant it will be. So make sure you are looking at the manufacturers size chart for that specific board.

Another factor that will manipulate the size of board, is wake size. How big of a wake your boat puts out will influenece how big or small of a board you can use. If you have a larger wake, you can use a smaller board. If your wake is smaller, you will have to use a little larger board.

Big Wake = More Push
Small Wake = Less Push

Approx. Wakesurf Sizes
Rider Weight (lbs)	Surf Style	Skim Style	Hybrid Style
Up to 110	<4'	<4'	<4'
100 - 170	4' - 4'8"	4' - 4'4"	3'9" - 4'8"
150 - 200	4'8" - 5'	4'4" - 4'10"	4'8" - 5'3"
190 - 250	>5'	4'10"	>5'
*These are rough numbers to get you in the ballpark of sizing. Always reference the manufacturer's size chart for specific sizing.

Wake Manipulation
Size of wake leads us into our next topic: Wake Manipulation. Manipulating the shape and size of your wake is relatively easy to do. The most common ways to accomplish this is the use of Wake Shapers and Ballast Bags.

Wake Shapers
- Wake Shapers come in a variety of sizes and typically suction cup on to the side of your boat. This makes it extremely easy to experiment with placement to see how it changes your wake. Move it close to the front of the boat, move it close to the back of the boat. Put it deeper in the water, put it shallower. These are easy adjustment you can make to see how it changes your boat.

Ballast Bags
- Ballast Bags, or Ballast, is added weight to the boat. This helps the boat sit deeper in the water, therefore displacing more water. Some boats have pre-plumbed ballast, and some you may need to buy aftermarket and fill for use.

Time to Wakesurf!

Now it is time to take your new board and get it in the water. Get out, have fun, and do it safe. Remember to always use your life jacket and if you have any questions in the future, talk to us at Pinewski's. It could be about the board you got, or how you can better your boat setup. We are more than eager to help and are experts on wakesurfing.

How to Choose and Size a Snowboard - A Buyer's Guide

Boards Can Be Confusing.

Choosing a snowboard is a very exciting experience. We also want to make sure we do it right the first time. So where do we start? Do we pick a brand and a size and go from there? Not quite. There are 3 major factors when it comes to choosing the right snowboard. Riding style, skill level, and then board size.

Riding Style
Riding style can be describe as where the board is intended to be ridden. This does not mean that you cannot ride any board, anywhere. But keep in mind that most boards have a specific type of terrain they are built for, and perform the best in.

All Mountain
- All mountain snowboards have all types of terrain in mind. One day you may want to be in the terrain park. The next you are cruising groomers. Nonetheless, All Mountain boards offer great versatility and are great boards for less aggressive riders.
- They do everything, but do not do one specific thing great.
- A common beginner board category.
Powder
- Powder boards are best, you guessed it, in powder conditions. These boards are typically a directional shape and use a setback stance. The wide nose profile and narrower tail keep the nose from diving under the snow and gives you that surfing feel.
Freestyle
- Freestyle snowboards are designed to be ridden in the terrain park. They use a twin shape (the length of the nose and tail are the same) and a centered stance. This shape and stance give the board the same feel whether you are riding regular or switch.
- Usually have a lot of pop to give you that lift off of jumps or rails.
- The tip and tail areas tend to be a little softer to help lock into presses on rails.
Freeride
- Think of Freeride snowboards as a combination of All Mountain and Freestyle snowboards. Freeride snowboards perform great in a variety of snow conditions but are stiffer to handle drops and very technical terrain. Freeride snowboards also perform very well at higher speeds because they tend to be stiffer.

Skill Level
Skill level is one of those areas that you have to be extremely honest with your current ability level. We encourage everyone to be as accurate as the can when thinking about your skill level. That way you do not end up with a board that is too stiff, or aggressive. Keep in mind, you should be buying a board for your current ability level, not what you hope to be. This way you can progress with the board and not trying to play catch up.

Board Size
Board size is the most confusing aspect of picking a snowboard. We strongly encourage the use of manufacturers size charts when it comes to picking a size. Use their chart to find what range of sizes would be appropriate for you. Size charts change from board to board, so make sure it is for that board. Then given this range, you can use the two fields above to help make the final decision. If you are a beginner or someone who rides in the terrain park, typically the shorter lengths are recommended. If you prefer really fast speeds and consider yourself an expert rider, usually the longer lengths are recommended for length.

If you cannot find a manufacturers recommended size chart, you can use the adage that the board length should fall between the collar bone and chin. This can get you close and has been a very reliable method in years past.
Width - If you have a larger foot, ie. men's 11.5 and bigger, look to see if the board you are looking at is offered in a wide designation. This will help eliminate toe and heel drag when turning. You could also look for boards that have use "volume shift". This means the board is not labeled wide but is in fact wider than most boards at their length.

Choosing a Longboard - A Buyer's Guide

Where to Start?

Choosing a longboard can be a very tall task, especially if someone is new to it. When deciding which longboard to purchase, there are 4 main categories to contemplate. Those 4 categories are: Decks, Trucks, Bearings, and Wheels. Here is our run through of those 4 categories with some additional details!

Longboard Decks.

Longboard decks have a lot of shapes, and those shapes all come with their advantages for things like comfort, feel or performance. The first thing we always like our customers to ask themselves is what type of riding do you picture yourself doing? Do you see yourself going out for a nice casual cruise, or do you see yourself as a thrill seeker, trying to bombing hills? This will be very important and help shape which deck will be right for you

Common Deck Shapes

Drop Through
- Drop Through decks are easily identified by how the longboard truck is mounted to the deck itself. The baseplate of the trucks are mounted on top of the deck and the rest of the truck "drops through" the board. The main reason boards are mounted this way is to achieve a lower center of gravity, or more stability. These decks are also great for long distance riding, especially when the deck is a little softer or flexible.
Drop Deck
- Drop deck boards have a lowered riding platform in relation to the tip/tail of the board. This is very unique and shaped during the construction process. This is done to achieve a lower center of gravity, and creates a great sense of stability. This type of construction is usually found on downhill and freeride boards as it creates a more locked in feel for your feet. Also can be a great shape for long distance riding as it lessens fatigue. You may even find a drop through / drop deck combination board!
Pintail
- The Pintail shape is the most iconic shape in all of longboarding. This is one of the first longboard shapes and is great for carving. It has a top mounted directional shape and you can find usually get one for a reasonable price. A very economic option in most cases
Top Mount
- Top mount is not necessarily a shape but a broad term to describe how trucks are mounted. When you have a deck that is a top mounted deck, like a pintail, you gain more leverage over the truck and allows you to get into deeper carves. Most often found on cruising/carving and advanced freeride boards.

Common Deck Construction

Sandwich Construction
- Thin veneers of wood are stacked on top of each other horizontally and laminated together with resin and pressed together in a mold that applies the pressure from top to bottom. This is the most common way of producing longboards. More plies = more stiffness.
Vertical Lamination
- Vertical stringers of wood are placed next to each other with resin and pressed together from side to side. This results in a board with a much thinner profile with great flex and durability characteristics.
Maple
- When a longboard is made using Maple, it is more commonly a stiffer construction. This is a great option for someone who is new to longboarding as it may make them feel more stable. It also works very well for an advanced rider who is looking to maximize their speed and control.
Bamboo
- Bamboo constructed longboards are made to be flexible and "surfy". The ultimate goal is to try an emulate what you feel on water and it seems that bamboo is great at doing that. A very resilient material that will break in over time.
Fiberglass/Basalt/Carbon Fiber
- Some boards might feature materials as "additives" used in combination with traditional board materials to achieve different performance characteristics. Carbon Fiber and Basalt laminates or stringers typically increase strength/stiffness and reduce weight. Fiberglass laminates usually allow a board to have a thinner profile and increase flexibility, without sacrificing durability.

Common Deck Features

Concave
- Concave is how the longboard deck is shaped from side to side. This, in addition to the griptape, will dictate how "locked in" your feet will feel. When you have steep concave, or a lot of it, you will feel more locked in and have have a greater sense of control. When you have very little concave, you will feel like you have a little more freedom to move your feet around. This gives you a looser feeling on the board and is more common with cruising and dancing shapes. Another common concave shape would be the W concave. This concave is more common on freeride and downhill boards.

Wheel Wells / Wheel Cut Outs
- Wheel Wells and Wheel Cut Outs are aspects of the board that allow the board to accommodate a larger array of wheel sizes. Eliminating what is called wheel bite. Wheel bite happens when a board is turned and the moving wheel contacts the deck. This stops the wheel from moving and sends the rider off the board.
  - Wheel wells are found on top mounted boards and are sanded into the bottom of the board.
  - Wheel Cut Outs are found with Drop Through and Drop Deck shapes.
Kick Tail
- A Kick Tail is the extra material on the outer ends of the deck, before the trucks. This area gives the board another level of maneuverability, and allows the rider to pop their board off the ground with ease. Some longboards do not have any Kick Tails, some may have one, and some may have two! Usually the types of longboards that have Kick Tails are freeride or freestyle shapes.

Longboard Trucks
Longboard trucks are the hunks of metal that are directly attached the the board and where the wheels are attached to. The Trucks allow the board to turn and can come in a variety of sizes.

Bushings
- Longboard bushings are the springs of a longboard truck. This make a huge difference in how a truck performs. You can get stiff bushings to create a more stable feeling, or softer bushings to allow the trucks to turn easier. Bushings will come in all sorts of shapes as well as hardness to help fine tune the truck feel.
Sizes
- Longboard trucks will come in different widths. When looking at purchasing trucks, make sure you get the approriate width of truck. If you get a truck too narrow, it may not line up with the Wheel Wells / Wheel Cut Outs. If you get a truck that is too wide, it will interfere with your feet while you are pushing. Narrower trucks are easier/quicker to turn, and wider trucks are more stable/slower turning. The most common size is 180mm.
Variations
- You may encounter different styles of trucks that use non traditional ways to lean and steer. Some styles may have multiple kingpins or some may utilize springs, these allow for unique turning characteristics compared to typical longboard trucks.

Longboard Wheels

Shapes
- The shape of a longboard wheel is in reference to the side profile of the edge of the wheel. This will help one distinguish what the wheel is intended for.
  - Square Lip Wheels
    - Square Lip profiled wheels are the best shape for holding onto the road. The squared profile allows the wheel to grab the road and conform to the road surface. Usually used for cruising/carving setups, as well as downhill setups.
  - Round Lip Wheels
    - Round lip wheels are designed to be able to let loose from the road with more ease. Typically found on freeride or freestyle setups. Great option for those looking to get into sliding.

Sizes
- With longboard wheels, there are 2 size dimensions. Wheel diameter, or height, and contact patch.
  - Wheel Diameter is the height of the wheel and can be easily broken down as such: Bigger wheels maintain their speed more than smaller wheels. So if you want to push less, a bigger wheel is encouraged.
    - *Note that not every board is compatible with every size wheel. So be careful about going to big if you are not able to try them in a store first.
  - Contact patch is the width of the wheel. The wider the wheel the more grip you have on the road.
Durometer
- Durometer is the hardness rating of the wheel. This number is easy to identify as it is always followed by the letter "A". (77A, 83A, etc.) The higher the number, the harder the wheel. (Typically wheel hardness for longboards falls between 75A and 86A)
  - Harder wheels will roll faster, and slide easier, but they do not offer as smooth of a ride.
  - Softer wheels create a very smooth ride, and grip very well.
Cores
- Centerset
  - The core of the wheel is placed directly in the center of the wheel. This allows the rider to flip their wheels if need be!
- Offset
  - Offset wheels place the core just to the inside of center. This makes the wheel easier to break into a slide, while still giving you a decent amount of grip when you need it.
- Sideset
  - The core of the wheel is set all the way to the inside of the wheel. This keeps the inside of the wheel from flexing, or grabbing the road. Making sideset wheels the easiest to put into a slide.

Longboard Bearings
Bearings are one of the easiest categories to understand. Typically the more you spend on a bearing the better performance you will get. Typically, cheaper bearings come sealed and are meant to be replaced ever so often. More expensive bearings have a higher grade steel, and a removable bearing shield. This allows you to clean and re-lubricate your bearings. The most expensive bearings are commonly made with ceramic ball bearings and also have a removable shield.

How to Size Skis

Ski Sizing??

Sizing skis is a topic that is as clear as mud. The recommended ski length can vary because of the type of ski you are looking at, or even how the ski is constructed. So how do you go about choosing the right size? We have broken down recommended ski lengths based on height for adults, and a height/weight/age chart for kids.

Adult
The general rule for adult ski sizing is that the ski length should fall somewhere between your chin and your forehead.

For beginners, try to stay close to your chin.
For intermediate level skiers, try to stay between upper lip and eyebrows.
For advanced level skiers, shoot for anything in your forehead to top of head in length.
For expert level skiers, you choose.

Adult Ski Sizing Guide
Height (in)	Height (cm)	Ski Length (cm)
4'0"	122	100-110
4'2"	127	110-120
4'4"	132	120-130
4'6"	137	125-135
4'8"	142	130-140
4'10"	147	135-145
5'0"	152	140-155
5'2"	158	145-165
5'4"	163	150-170
5'6"	168	155-175
5'8"	173	160-180
5'10"	178	165-185
6'0"	183	170-185
6'2">	188	175-193

Decisions, Decisions
Now that you have used the above chart to find your recommended range, you can start deciding if you want a shorter ski or longer ski. We have broken down some questions for each decision below:

GO SHORTER, CLOSER TO YOUR CHIN IF:

You are a beginner-intermediate level skier
You prefer making shorter/quicker turns
You are looking for a carving ski

GO LONGER, CLOSER TO THE TOP OF YOUR HEAD IF:

You are an advanced-expert level skier
You like skiing fast and making longer turns
You mostly ski off trial
You are looking at a ski with a lot of rocker

Kid's
Kid's ski sizing runs a little different from the adult ski sizing because we typically size kid's skis a little shorter.

When using the below chart, your child's height may be between the two listed. If that is the case, find their weight and proceed as follows:

If child is light for their height, use the shorter height. This will result in a shorter ski recommendation, and allow you child to flex the ski more naturally.
If child is heavy for their height, use the taller height. This will result in a longer ski recommendation and keep your child from over flexing the ski.

Kid's Ski Sizing Guide
Age	Height (in)	Height (cm)	Weight (lbs)	Weight (kg)	Ski Length (cm)
3	37	94	31	14	70-80
4	40	102	35	16	80-90
5	43	109	40	18	90-100
6	45	114	46	21	100-110
7	48	122	50	23	100-110
8	50	127	57	26	110-120
9	53	135	63	29	120-130
10	55	140	70	32	120-130
11	57	145	79	36	130-140
12	59	149	89	40	140-150
13	61	156	100	45	140-150
14	64	163	110	50	150-160

*Height and weight for age is based off of 50th percentile for children of that age*

Decisions, Decisions
Now that you have found the recommended size range for your child, use the following questions to better indentify if you should stay on the high or low side of the range.

SIZE SHORTER, CLOSER TO CHEST IF:

Child’s weight is less than average for their height.
Child is a novice level and/or cautious skier.
Child likes to make quick short turns.
Child is still developing turning skills.

SIZE LONGER, CLOSER TO THE NOSE IF:

Child’s weight is more than average for their height.
Child’s ability level is advanced.
Child likes to ski fast.
You are looking at a ski with early rise or powder rocker.
You are looking to have “room to grow”. We do not recommend going longer than your child’s suggested size range.
- Remember it is better to ski a ski too short in the future, than something too long and cumbersome right now.

Ski Leasing
If you are worried about your child growing out of ski equipment, look no further than our Junior Ski Lease program. This program is designed to keep your kids in quality equipment that is properly sized for them!

Choosing a Snowboard Boot

Boots = Important

Choosing a snowboard boot is one of the most important decisions you will make when it comes to buying your snowboard gear. This is why it is very important to take your time, and make sure you go through all the necessary steps to get the boot made for you! Here are 3 categories that we felt are the most important when choosing the boot for you.

Fit
Knowing how a snowboard boot should fit is very important, and it will give you insight on what to expect when trying them on.

How tight should a snowboard boot be?
- A snowboard boot should feel like a firm handshake around your foot. Snug enough that your foot is not moving around in the boot, but not bone crushing tight.
  - Note that snowboard boots should fit tighter than your street shoes.
- Your toes should be able to touch or brush the front when standing up straight.
  - When you flex forward in the boot, or get into a riding stance (knees and ankles bent), the pressure on your toe should be relieved.
- Your heel should be locked in. There should be little to no heel movement inside the boot. We want the heel to stay planted down inside of the boot.
- For the best advice on how tight a snowboard boot should be it is always best to go to a local shop and work with a bootfitter.

Flex
This is a great piece of information that will give you lots of insight in to the level of performance that the boot offers. Snowboard boots are usually rated on a scale 1-10, with 1 being the softest and 10 being the stiffest.

Stiff Boots
- Stiff snowboard boots offer a more responsive feel for the rider. Meaning what you do inside the boot is transmitted to the board faster.
- Usually favored by aggressive/fast riders who like to ride All Mountain.
Soft Boots
- Soft snowboard boots offer a playful feeling. Soft snowboard boots are great for those just getting started because it encourages more movement.
- Park riders also prefer soft snowboard boots as it is easier to tweak trick and grabs with them.

Lacing
When it comes down to lacing there is no lacing system that is better than the other. It really comes down to personal preference. We have broken down the 3 main categories of lacing below.

Traditional
- Traditional lacing is the most customizable, easiest to fix, and least costly. However, they can be hard to use with gloves on.
Speed Lace
- Speed Lace, sometimes referred to as Quick Pull, is very easy to use with gloves on but can be a pain to fix in a bind.
BOA
- BOA or other dial closures are the easiest to use with a glove, and offer the most convenience.
  - Multi zone BOA closure boots are becoming more popular, and offer more customization to the fit of the boot.

Other Talking Points

Socks

It is very important to have a proper snowboard sock. A proper snowboard sock is a sock that comes up and out of the boot, made of a moisture wicking material, and is not too thick. Popular snowboard socks are made with merino wool and are medium to thin in thickness. If you find yourself wearing a thicker sock to keep your boot tight, your boot is probably too big. It is recommended to buy a pair of thin to medium snowboard socks to wear while you are trying on new snowboard boots.

Bootfitters

Bootfitters are not only a great resource because of their experience, but they can give you insights on insoles and other boot modifications that can be done to your boots to enhance the fit even more!

Building Your First Skateboard

Boards, Bearings, Battlestar Galactica

Building your first skateboard is a very exciting time! Being able to mix and match components to match your needs or style really makes the process personal. In the same breathe, this can be a very daunting task and seem overwhelming. That is why we have compiled a rough road map in helping you decide how to build your first skateboard!

Choosing the Board
Skateboards come in a variety of sizes and shapes and they are all built for different applications. The beauty of this all is there is no right or wrong shape or size. Just think of them as insights into what you really like or don't like. So don't get hung up on the nailing down a perfect board for your first setup, as your tastes will likely change.

Shape

Skateboards can be broken down into two main categories: Popsicle, and Shaped.
- Popsicle shapes will work for all types of skating but are designed for tricks.
- Shaped skateboards are great for cruising and could be used in transition.

Size

Size is really a subjective category and this is where personal preference comes into play quite a bit. There is no right size!
- Narrower boards are very nimble and can be moved, or flipped, with a lot less effort.
- Wider boards are very stable and can make it easier to land on when trying new tricks.

Construction

Depending on what your skateboard is made out of, you skateboard may last longer, feel lighter, or even break your bank. Here is a list of common construction types and their benefits!
- 7-Ply Maple: The most common construction for a skateboard. This is the least costly way to build a board and would keep your cost down when building one. Odds are the majority of skateboards you are looking at are built this way.
- Carbon Fiber: Now every company has a different name for their carbon fiber infused construction but some of the most common would be Flight, VX, or Impact. These types of constructions allow skateboardsto be more durable and lighter weight. These decks are also usually more expensive, so if you want to save a couple bucks maybe look at a 7-Ply Maple deck.

Choosing the Components

Trucks

Trucks are the piece of the skateboard that connect the deck to the wheels and allow the skateboard to turn. Skateboard trucks do come in different sizes, so make sure you are familiar with a companies size chart when choosing trucks for your deck.

Wheels

Wheels come in various different sizes and hardness (Durometer). Where you plan on skating will have an impact on the size and hardness of wheel that is recommended.
- Size
  - Smaller wheels are good for technical skating. (keeps the board lighter)
    - 50-54mm
  - Larger wheels are great for vert or transition skating. These will usually require a riser pad for wheel clearance.
    - 55-60mm
- Hardness (Durometer)
  - Softer wheels = More traction.
  - Harder wheels = Faster and Easier Slides
  - 99 Duro is a great starting place that offers a balance between these two.

Bearings

Bearings follow the old adage of "you get what you pay for". Typically the more you spend on bearings the longer and faster you will roll. If you are looking for a dependable bearing that wont cost a lot, assume $20-$30 for the set.

Other

Griptape
- This is a way for you to personalize your board! They come in almost every color and various designs, so pick one you like! One thing to make sure before you purchase is that the width of the griptape is wider than your skateboard. This will make the application much easier.
Hardware
- Hardware is the nuts and bolts that keep the trucks attached to the skateboard. Skateboard hardware comes in various lengths and colors.
  - If you are not using a riser/shock pad, 7/8" or 1" hardware will be sufficient. If you do use a riser or shock pad, look at using 1 1/8" hardware.
  - Hardware can be colored to help designate the front of the board. This is very helpful especially with popsicle shapes.

That's It!

Now that you have all your components picked out and put together, it is time to get out there and use your skateboard! If you have any questions about setting up your skateboard, reach out to us via email, phone, or whatever means necessary!

Choosing a Ski Boot

Boots, Boots, Boots.

Choosing the proper boot can be very tricky. Not only are there almost too many options to choose from, but most of us do not know where to start. What makes it even harder is that we are looking for that mysterious "glass slipper". We want our boot to be easy to put on, and something that is comfortable all day. This is why it is important to take our time with the process. Don't rush through it, and make sure you are happy with how the boot fits.

Now, as convenient as it may be to take your shoe off, and glance at the slightly worn out size label, this is not the best way to pick a ski boot. We highly encourage everyone to go to a certified bootfitter for the most accurate measuring and bootfitting. We also understand that not everyone has a reputable boot fitter where they live, so here is a roadmap of steps to help you understand what you may be looking at:

1. Measure your foot.

Measure your foot from the heel to the tip of your longest toe.
- Do this in centimeters as ski boots are measured in Mondo Point (centimeters).
Measure the forefoot of your foot.
- This measurement is taken at the "knuckles" of your toes and gives you a good idea of how wide your foot is. This is done in mm.
  - For a more accurate measurement, you can wrap a string all the way around your foot and measure that.
    - This is done in cm as well, and you should get something close to the length of your foot. If it is smaller, then you know you have a narrow foot for your given length. If it is longer than your foot length then you know you have a wide foot for your length.

2. Understanding Sizing

Most ski boots are made in every half size.
- Meaning most companies only offer a 23.5, 24.5, 25.5 and so on. Rather than offering a 23.5, 24.0, 24.5.
- It is encouraged to stay as close to your exact length rather than sizing up.
Ski boot sizing is tighter than your street shoes.
- Ski boots should, and will, feel tighter or smaller than your street shoes. If you fit your boots like your street shoes, you will have a hard time controlling your skis, and in some cases, keeping your foot in one spot inside the boot.
The width of ski boots is referred to as the "LAST"
- 92mm: Very narrow foot. For the most part offered solely in race boots
- 96-98mm: Narrow fit. Most commonly referred to as a low volume fit.
- 100mm: The most average width. Think of this as the standard shape, and if you feel you need to go up or down you can move from here.
- 102mm: Wide fit. For those people who have pressure on the sides of the feet.
- 106mm: Extra Wide. For very wide feet.

3. Deciding on the flex

The flex of a boot is a reference on how stiff or soft the boot is. This helps determine the levels of skiers or body shape of the skier that should be using the boots
- 60-90 flex boots usually indicate a beginner level boot for men, and 60-75 indicate the same for women's boots.
- 90-110 flex boots usually indicate the boot is for an intermediate level skier. The range for women's boots is usually 75-90.
- 110 and higher for men, and 90 and higher for women are usually indicating the boot is for advanced level skiers
- Anything 140-150 usually means that this person is the highest level skier on the planet and they probably compete on the World Cup Circuit of sorts. In other words their shins are made of steel and they ski extremely fast.
One other key thing to keep in mind is that the flex index is not an official metric. The flex indexes are very subjective and can even vary within the same company.
- Ex. You try on a 100 flex boot from Atomic and it was too stiff, that does not mean that a boot from Lange will also be too stiff. try on lots of boots!

4. Where do you ski? Skiing Style.

Now depending on where you ski or what your style is like, boots are tweaked for this.
- If you ski in the park, your probably after a softer flexing boot that allows you to get over your skis more, and allows you to tweak various grabs and tricks with ease. These boots also commonly feature a cushion foot board for impact absorption.
- If you are looking at an alpine touring boot, these boots are naturally softer than what their flex indexes indicate. This is to keep the boots as light as possible.

5. Purchased!

Once you purchase your boots we highly encourage someone to wear them for a couple different sessions just around the house. This is an effort to get the boot to start the break in period even before we have hit the slopes.
If irritations with the boot continue, bring the boots into a specialized bootfitter (like ourselves!) and they will be able to help you with the next steps!